On Monday (it's Thursday 29th today) I took a bus to Olkhon Island. A bit of background to the island and Lake Baikal - it is the deepest lake in the world at 6 or 7 kilometres deep and can fit all the water from the North American lakes in it, its 363 miles long and up to in places 100km wide - it's the size of Belgium. Olkhon island sits midway up the lake and is thought to be one of only a few true centres of shamanism across the world (don't ask me why). The place is truly incredible. Read more about it here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Baikal

The minibus took 8 hours. The driver reminded me of a fat Ray Leotta (but was Russian). He was on acid or something similar. Driving like a MANIAC on roads made of sand. A few things about Russian roads - most are massive, almost always badly tarmac'd, and if they are not either they are made of sand and pebbles (the size of your fist giving the suspension enough of a bang to send shockwaves to the top of your head). So Ray drove us through some beautiful countryside - trees, grassy plains and desert. We stopped twice - once for a toilet and lunch break (the toilet was something else - think group squatting and me an English lady trying not to look at the fat Russian next to me taking a dump), and once to cross to the island by ferry. I swear my neck will never be the same again - on one particular bump my spinal cord compressed to the size of a thimble and no mistaking.

On board our "Danger Bus" I met Vivian and Christian - a Danish couple. Very lovely. Got to Nikita's Homestay where I was staying - it's run by Nikita an ex-table tennis world champion (I saw him in the bar and wasn't that impressed to be honest). It's an excellent place though and just by the beach - it's a cross between a commune and a, well, commune really. The food is included in the price which equals 3 meals a day! Can you believe it!? Fatty Willoughby is back! The above pictures are Vivian, Christian, my room and a guy who every morning woke me up without fail barking his head off. I quite liked his little house though and if you look in the picture of my room you can see him quite clearly.

It's cold enough to be Ireland and yet everyone speaks Russian. Truely beautiful sights. And it's raining, so I get to wear all my warm clothes which I am loving.

So I just spent my time seeing some of the island - including an old soviet airport, a burnt down gulag and the beautiful coast. It was also my first opportunity to horse ride and it was really the right place to do it. I was on a bus with some French people and Vivian and Christian - I heard a fantastic thing from the French though "you know the French population is the second most important population in London". I almost spat my soup over her but said nothing.

Saw loads of wildlife including some ground squirrel things - Vanessa will know what I am talking about - yes they are the very same my dear. So all in all a good time (apart from that I got stung by, not only a bee but a bumble bee whilst sun bathing, the little shite - I thought they were nice?).

Off to Listvyanka tomorrow to try some diving in the Lake. It's going to be cold and I'll probably come out after 5 minutes but I've got to give it a try.

Yekaterinburg to Irkutsk

Ahh thank god the longest journey is over. It was tough. 3 days of not talking to anyone (in carriage with fattties on tour) was a challenge which I won (but struggled with the entire time). Ate little, slept little and spoke little. Ian is pictured here with a waving crab crisp which I bought from the restaurant wagon - they really are quite something not only for their hand waving abilities.

Took some snaps of the countryside going by as well as some videos which I can't put on here yet as the connection is too slow. Points of note about the journey - Russian men like going topless like Brits abroad especially the fat ones, saw some men selling furry hats (didn't buy one Alison, sorry), all Russians smoke, ear plugs are essential along with speaking Russian for a tour like this, there are no foreigners in second class, drinking on your own while not talking for 3 days is very dangerous for ones soul, fog rules.

So got to Irkutsk proper today - which is a very pretty city, much much nicer than Yekaterinburg. I walked from the train station to the hostel this morning, and it was lovely to be out in the fresh air after the last few days. The hostel is nice and I met Femke who I had met in Yekaterinburg, we hung out with an Italian for the day (I can't remember his name), basically just walking around the city. Saw some more bloody churches but nothing of note happened apart from us coming across a gathering of sailors celebrating something, what? we were never quite sure of. Had a bloody good Mongolian meal tonight and feel much better for it.

Am off to Olkhon Island tomorrow (in Lake Baikal) on the bus (another 8 hour trip) but not sure I will get internet access, so will update when I can.